Monday, September 27, 2010

Fashion In Magazines

Hello, hello readers. 

We have to talk! Let's talk about something what has been on my mind for quite awhile. 
Czech High Fashion. I never was one of these kids who went to Prague Fashion Week, but my mother made me to watch lame Czech version of some American Fashion TV News, and yes I have been watching these shows since I was able to understand what T-Shirt is. And as I got older... Not by much, I started to buy fashion magazines. I wasn't a big fan of Bravo girl or whatever it was, since the paper quality was really low and even without my photoshop education yet, I was horrified by their retouching. And one day it happened. First CosmoGirl came out, first magazine with at least comparable quality to my mother's magazines. I was having a blast and enjoyed every fashion spread in it. And no lies I was standing every month in Newspaper shop with money I had to beg for, just to buy new amazing issue. My mom just had to censure (by that I mean glue or rip out) the sex pages since it was inappropriate for my age... and believe me or not, she was doing it till I was 14. Like we didn't have internet, silly parents.
So as I was getting older, I stopped buying CosmoGirl and started to read magazines more for my age (yes I was still like 15)... Elle. It was good for me, since my mother and sister  have been buying it and I didn't have to buy it by myself. Well Ok... I'm fast reader (just magazines, even I love books, they take a little bit more) so it took me a day, and I got bored of it. But time to time I looked for fashion inspiration. After a year, I thought I'm in another level of education than my mother (I studied a fancy art school, which I loved very much) and I thought I am very sophisticated (teenager in Prague, living in a dorm, studying art? Not good combination) and I started to read political magazines, not that I was reading all articles. Well than I went through times when I was reading art magazines only etc. Now I don't read any of them. I just decided not to spend my missing money on something I don't want to keep. So I got my internet connection ready and started to read american vogue on the internet, well it's not exactly reading, but so what. And I started to follow some fashion blogs, art blogs, design blogs, food blogs, make-up blogs, hair style blogs, sport blogs and you know... I really just go through what I want to know and it doesn't cost me anything. One thing I can't deny to fashion magazines... their gifts...

 By the time my mothers fashion magazine mania, I collected some very pretty things. I got some ugly scarfs, some nice scarfs, some little make-up bags, what ended up in the trash because my mom brought better from work (who wouldn't want YSL bag over Max Factor, right?), I don't know what all I got, but it was quite few and you know what? Some of them were really good quality, even, it's a magazine gift for "free".  Well but now I want to get to the point of post today. 
 Last issue of Elle CZ offered a pretty big deal... T-shirt from Jakub Polanka, who's something like "hot stuff" designer over here. Well except the fact he's a handsome guy, I never got into his creations, but maybe comparing him with the rest of top fashion designers he does do things differently. Well I don't want to sound hateful, we have some pretty good fashion designers, but the problem here is, that we are still talking about small businesses. Nobody ever have done something like other great fashion designers did, well maybe except Baťa, but that was First Republic, by that time we were the most developed country in the old continent, unfortunately this amazing time lasted just for 9 years. It was between wars. Back to topic. My mom of course bought this magazine and gave me the t-Shirt. I have to say, for the first impression, it looks kind of cool... for the second and maybe not the one everyone would judge, but I do since I'm learning how to sew and I'm watching Project Runway (I feel so critical after that, I would really just judge everyone). Let me ask you question (and I would be really happy if you would answer to that in comments), what would you expect of getting from the best fashion designer in country 2010? 
 I would expect some quality, since it's a gift from designer and I would expect him to represent his brand. Not in the case of Jakub Polanka. First what I noticed, T-shirt was made in China. Not a big deal, I told myself. Lot of things are made in China, right? Second... the material is Rayon. It's one of the cheapest fabrics, and even it has some good qualities like it's draping, it also has bad qualities, it shrinks and has static issues... I don't even have to mention, that I actually got little electric shock and could hear cracking sounds as I was taking the t-shirt off. Rayon is made of cellulose, which sounds like a natural material, but the process how to make a fiber from cellulose is so chemically complicated that Rayon is considered as a synthetic fabric. Now to the design. 

I know now the last season was super popular this horrible 80's mode, but as I well researched, it won't take long and the next season will be very girly and very female. Shouldn't be fashion designer ahead a little bit? I like the idea of using this tee as a canvas and finishing the words, but that's about it. Now how it's actually made. Seams are literary falling apart, because they weren't finished and "locked", there are no hems, which is OK, it's part of design, I just hate these curly unfinished garments. When I am sewing, the most important thing for me is, that the parts actually fit to each other and there is not one of them longer or shorter... Not for mister Polanka... The front piece is longer than the back one, so it doesn't sit as it should and nobody even bothered to cut it. 
Why to do so, when it's curled right? I see another point, two seams have been sewed by this blue (my color as you know) thread, which I can see it as a designers intention, but WHY? I mean we can't actually see it until we turn the t-shirt on the wrong side, so is it just a hidden surprise? You might disagree with me, based on this was mass produced t-shirt for magazine. I get it, but my question is, should be top fashion designer sign under such a poorly made t-shirt? Maybe in Czech Republic.

Well I wrote enough today... I'm on my way to dream about someone who will actually raise the level of fashion here...
At least I got nice t-shirt for my upcoming drawing classes at VŠUP.

Love T.

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